The Leather Jacket
*EDIT* Blogger is happy again and uploading photographs. The purple monkeys that power it must have finally gotten their new waistcoats!
I thought I would write a little on the leather jacket, a piece that most men often get wrong (think Matrix-esque trench coats and awfully fitted leather blazers). The main piece of advice I can give, that is often overlooked by the majority if men is actually hinted at in the name, leather 'jacket'. A jacket is an upper body article of clothing designed to hip or waist length. This means that anything past this point is not the look we are going for, anything coming down to your thighs or lower will not be an easy look for most men, therefore probably best avoided. Of course if you enjoy dressing in ankle length leather coats and spikey boots, I fully condone your right to wear that, however most men do not suit that look.
My second piece of advice is about fit, undoubtedly the key to working any look. A leather jacket should be 'fitted', meaning the slimmer the better, do not be worried about going for a size down. My general advice is to ignore size labels and find the fit you want, not what they dictate you ought to be. Everyone has a different body type and shape, no store or manufacturer can cater to all people of a certain labelled size, so explore for your fit. One of the most important parts to remember here are the shoulders, they make or break a man's jacket. Due to the slight stiffer nature of leather, you will definately want to go with a jacket which hugs your shoulders. The slightest slouching or portruding of the shoulders will be immediately evident. Also remember that a leather jacket is not easily hemmed or adjusted, so do not buy a jacket with slightly longer sleeves. For a leather jacket you want shorter sleeves than you would go for with a blazer. Unfortunately men tend to go for larger fitting items thinking that it looks more masculine and as hacing a larger frame, however it actually has the opposite visual effect.
Picking back up on the actual material, you want a supple leather, the softer the leather is, the better fitted the jacket will be. Thick leather is more suited to that 1980s biker look with studs and chains, which I am presuming for now we want to avoid. Soft leather will automatically look better as it is better able to follow the natural contours of the body. Zips are also key to keeping this desired shape, buttons on a leather jacket are not a good idea for the most part, after all we are after a jacket not a blazer. Zips also mean the jacket will tend to have a snugger fit due to the fact that the material does not overlap in front of the body. Indeed it is far harder to find a proper fitting buttoned jacket due to the fact that far more variables are involved - for example, the number of buttons and breaking point of the jacket depends greatly on one's height and body type.
In general make sure to shop around for the perfect fit, compromises are not good for leather jackets, altering the garment is not exactly an option. Depending on whether you want the smart or casual look, it will change what you are looking for. If you plan on wearing a skinny tie and shirt, go for a slim jacket with a low collar, avoiding the biker neck strap look. For a more rough and ready look you can go more relaxed on the fit, however not compromising on the length. Colour is also an important issue, going with a plain black is the easiest option, try to avoid overly distressed leathers if you are not too experimental. Also please note that biker's jackets are similar to helmets, in that they are less a fashion piece than a necessity of riding, they are seldom a good look. Remember that a leather jacket is a representation of your personality, they are wonderfully diverse and unique, so go for something you love!
Special thanks to Ellie for tagging me for the Premio Award, and also the delightful Vintage Vinyl for the same honour.
Currently playing: I Wanna Be - Chris Brown
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