Industrial Elegance
Autumn/Winter 2021
Julius Juul, designer for Heliot Emil, described the aesthetic of their Autumn/Winter 2021 collection as “industrial elegance”. I love that term as a concept because it speaks to functionality in design, while allowing for a strong directional aesthetic. When it comes to menswear I actually find it difficult to lose myself in full fantasy, because I am invariably thinking about what I would personally wear, and I enjoy practicality. That may seem at odds with the more romantic and whimsical avant-garde designs I tend to enjoy, but I think there is always a fine balance to be found regardless of which aesthetic direction you choose, and ultimately it is up to the wearer as to what pieces serve the functions they require. We all have our own social spheres and sartorial codes to negotiate, and so it is about finding what works for you and your lifestyle.
Titled “Unstable Equilibrium”, the collection consisted of asymmetric tailoring and design, effectively styled to create visually balanced looks that I really enjoyed. Weirdly enough what actually drew my attention was trying to work out the number of pockets and storage options for each look. I have a slight obsession with pockets, mostly because I prefer not to have to carry too many small items in a bag unless necessary. Yohji Yamamoto is well-documented as designing his menswear with pockets in mind - he designs for the vagabonds (his term), and they carry their life in their pockets. Rick Owens also once famously said that he designs his jackets with enough pocket space to store a book and a sandwich. I wholeheartedly approve of the former, but the latter seems like a laundry nightmare waiting to happen (I guess it depends on your sandwich of choice, but oil stains are not to be trifled with).
I have a pretty standardized everyday carry when it comes to my pocket space these days - my phone, a cardholder, keys, a Liberty print floral handkerchief (I might wear all black, but I collect Liberty print handkerchiefs), some gum or hard candy, a cahier notebook and pen (if you are wondering who uses the breast pockets of their shirts, it is me), a camera (currently the Ricoh GR III, which fits nicely into a jacket pocket), and often a worry stone (although I might leave it and play with a beaded bracelet on my wrist instead). Hand sanitizer that used to live in my bag has either been in my jacket pocket or on a carabiner hooked onto my trousers since the pandemic started. These all require suitable pocket space, otherwise you end up with bulges all over and not in a cool Lumps And Bumps CdG way. So yes, seeing multiple pockets and small bags makes me happy.
There is also something about being buckled in and strapped in that I like the look and feel of for the colder months. I like a feeling of security from a variety of design elements. For example, I have Crohn’s disease so a drawstring waist is something I absolutely love. The sizing is flexible enough for the ups and downs of whatever my stomach decides to do that day and grants greater control than a belt, although I do have an elastic woven belt that I love. There is also a sense of psychological and physical comfort for me in having a waist that feels supported and gently held. For me that yearning for comfort extends to all clothing in the colder months, because when clothing feels secure and supportive, it makes me feel like I am that touch more prepared for whatever comes. There is also the fact that it feels nicer in terms of trapping heat, or at least, not allowing a breeze in. Feeling secure is also why I tend to appreciate flat soled shoes, or heavier boots, because then I feel more grounded when I stand or walk. Indeed this is one of the reasons that I have been venturing into barefoot shoes for the past year.
But yes, I think I will be keeping my eyes peeled for some Heliot Emil pieces once Autumn arrives. Although given the weather in London these past few days, it might already be here.
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