Cashmere Dreams
Capsule Collection (Autumn/Winter 2023)
The collaboration fatigue is real. Mugler collaborating with H&M, Balenciaga collaborating with Crocs (still not over those prices), Rick Owens collaborating with Birkenstock, Haider Ackermann collaborating (probably not the word Jurgi Persoons would use) with Jean Paul Gaultier, and my anxiety collaborating with my digestive system to try and bring me down from the inside. It makes sense financially, especially in the current market, but even so, the novelty has long since worn off.
And yet, as has always been the case with fashion, there is thankfully something for everyone. Case in point - I might be in the minority, but I really enjoyed the collaboration Zegna had with Fear of God back in 2020. Not anything I would wear personally, but that is hardly the barometer - I loved the ‘80s vibes and thought it was a beautiful collection overall. I know Jerry Lorenzo gets a bad wrap for the ubiquitous fuckboi uniform from some years ago of zippered slouchy pants, hoodie and flannel shirt, but I genuinely enjoy his more recent work.
So when I saw earlier this week that Zegna had a new collaboration in the works, this time with The Elder Statesman, my interest was instantly piqued. I have to admit my knowledge of The Elder Statesman is pretty much limited to: insane cashmere at insane prices, and the fact that they do pretty much everything in-house (all the press releases for the collaboration have made sure to mention Zegna taking advantage of The Elder Statesman’s vertical integration).
Zegna’s Alessandro Sartori and The Elder Stateman’s Greg Chait are both yarn obsessives, and that makes me happy, because fabric matters to me. Research shows that the tactile quality of fabrics, specifically softness, is positively associated with the idea of luxury for consumers. I also recently read a paper on car interiors (here) that suggested that affect intensity (the intensity at which we individually experience our emotions) influences tactile sensory preferences in consumers. Higher AI individuals tend to seek out positive stimulation, and again, this primarily takes the form of softness. That definitely seems to apply to me.
It is no secret that I love soft fabrics, so a collection focusing on cashmere and cashmere blends gets me interested. And thankfully the clothes deliver - I love how cosy and comfortable everything looks. It is interesting to see Zegna go so casual, especially with those robe coats and pyjama suits, but it works well given the intention of seeking a new consumer base for the brand. There is a focus on oversize and genderless pieces, which I am a fan of seeing. I also enjoy those beautifully saturated patterns and the colour blocking. It made for a fun contrast against the more subdued colour palette of Zegna’s Autumn/Winter 2023 collection.
The collaboration marks the launch of Zegna’s Oasi Cashmere project, with Zegna also committing to making all their yarn fully traceable by 2024. That little nod to sustainability seems a bit late, but given some of the behaviours we see with other fashion houses, I do think it is worth mentioning all the same.
Needless to say, I really want to try these pieces on in person and hopefully feel like I have wrapped myself in a cloud.
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