How Things Changed
We live in a world of consumer participation. A news report will have the opinion of an expert, followed by the opinion of ten people stopped in the street, as if the perspective of the latter is more relevant than the former. A news article is published and there are reader comments left below, voted up or down by other readers, the topic taking on a life of its own often far removed from the facts. But what of topics where there are no real facts to be debated, but simply ideas and opinions to be discussed? What of art, fashion, design, culture - not from the perspective of the historian or critic, but from that of the interested observer? We are connected at all times, the Internet is all pervading, everyone has a voice. It is both liberating and constricting. Sometimes I wish I could leave everything behind and just find somewhere quiet to meditate on fashion.
When I started blogging some four years ago the blogosphere was an entirely different place. Although fashion blogging was slowly gaining part of the recognition and place within the industry it now enjoys, it was still in the early stages. This was before every shop had its own blog, before news sites pushed their reporter blogs, before every fashion label and store had a Twitter and Facebook to connect with their customers and fans. People were more anonymous, less willing to reveal their faces, their names, their personal lives. But these same people were more willing to voice an opinion, to say how much they loved a collection, how much they hated a collection, free to voice themselves as they wished. Blogs came and blogs went, but they passed mostly unnoticed by the fashion industry.
And then things began to change. Suddenly fashion blogging was the new hot thing within the industry. It was a breath of fresh air, sweeping in so that the cold and scary world of fashion was blown open to outsiders. Blogs became an accessible avenue into talking about and appreciating fashion. These were not magazine writers, news writers, experienced fashion critics, but normal people, people like you and me. These blogs talked about fashion, but they were less daunting, more casual, more personal, more approachable. There were good blogs, there were bad blogs, and yet whilst many fell by the wayside, both seemed to flourish. And suddenly there were bloggers in magazines, bloggers at fashion shows, bloggers in the news, and now it seems that having a blog is a necessity for anyone working in or interested in fashion. Everyone has a voice, however some are louder than others, and because what they say gets noticed, there are always those wishing to influence what is said.
Whereas once PR companies turned their noses at the amateurs, now it seems you cannot open your inbox without dozens of emails poring out - "Could you write about our client?", "We think you would love our zebra print thongs!", "Let me introduce this new range of fluoro-latex pocketsquares". The fashion industry has quickly come to realize that blogs have access to a massive potential consumer base. Their readers are almost guaranteed to be interested in fashion, and thus potential customers in the making. Nowadays there is advertising on blogs, sponsored content, freebies for review, sponsored giveaways, blogs being asked to join publisher networks, etc. There was money to be made and although fashion may often present itself as a realm of untainted creativity, of masterpieces designed by genius artists, it is very much a commercial venture, and here is an avenue to make more money. Blogs are often seen as a space for free advertising, advertised by someone the potential consumer can connect with, and thus more likely to foster interest.
I exaggerate the point only to provoke consideration of the issue, because I do wonder about the extent to which advertising and the participation of the fashion industry influences the blogosphere. I am not against advertising and sponsored content (although I do not participate in either), provided there is a certain amount of transparency. Indeed I think bloggers should be allowed to earn a revenue, but I wonder how slippery the slope is where it comes to fashion companies dictating what is to be covered and what is to be said. A magazine can not criticise a company that pays for advertising in that magazine, and I wonder if the same fate lies in wait for the blogger. The cynic in me sees so many blogs slowly becoming conduits for advertising and serving to create a buzz around whatever brand or product. Sometimes I wonder whether blogs risk becoming exactly what they were created to provide an alternative to.
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