The Mark of a Gentleman
The Man Who Knew Too Much (1956)Alfred Hitchcock
(movie stills taken by me)
It would perhaps seem to the outside observer that elegance in men's attire and style has slowly been diminishing since the 1950s. But to consider the historic evolution of the suit, from the Court dress, to the riding-coat-inspired morning coat, to the lounge suit (a brief overview to say the least), which dominated the 20th Century, there has always been a diminishing in some form.
This is not to say that the movement towards the casual is in any way bad, however I for one lament the passing of days where true gentlemen wore hats and suits even on the weekends. I suppose I am a romantic at heart, and whilst fashion may invariably influence the general clothing and styles of various generations, I often feel that a pull back, such as the traditions still heralded by Savile Row, would have a relevance in today's society.
There are men today who feel uncomfortable in a shirt and tie, let alone a lounge suit, and it truly does make me wonder where the next adoption of casual elements into formal attire will strike. Invitations to Buckingham Palace, where Court dress was the norm, have for the past few decades boldly listed 'morning suits or lounge suits' as the expected attire. I have that romantic notion of dressing up for events, rather than simply wearing what one would wear to the office. I am most probably sounding like a bitter man beyond my years, but generations shall always hark back to the traditions of old, and there is certainly something to be said for looking smart and presentable.
My pondering over this matter actually stems from the fact that I was watching Alfred Hitchcock's Rope this weekend, a film I would definitely recommend to you all. I am particularly fond of the fact that the entire film is situated within a single set, using only 10 takes (!!). The costume design is one that I absolutely adore - the men are for the most parts wearing full thee-piece suits completely furnished with pocket squares. The pocket square, a handkerchief placed in the breast pocket of one's coat (more commonly called the jacket or blazer), is a formal accessory that seems to have fallen to the wayside with the modern evolution of men's formal attire. Indeed even by Hitchcock's 1956 film, The Man Who Knew Too Much, one notes that the only characters to sport them are merely on the periphery of the show.
The pocket square is a trend which actually originates from the end of the First World War, and although perhaps at first a casual element in itself, it was quickly adapted to serve a far more aesthetic and decorative purpose. In the run of things, it is perhaps a short-lived accessory, and yet for me there is an inherent charm to the pocket square. It is an elegant touch, and elegance is something unfortunately far too lacking in men's style these days.
This is not to say that the movement towards the casual is in any way bad, however I for one lament the passing of days where true gentlemen wore hats and suits even on the weekends. I suppose I am a romantic at heart, and whilst fashion may invariably influence the general clothing and styles of various generations, I often feel that a pull back, such as the traditions still heralded by Savile Row, would have a relevance in today's society.
There are men today who feel uncomfortable in a shirt and tie, let alone a lounge suit, and it truly does make me wonder where the next adoption of casual elements into formal attire will strike. Invitations to Buckingham Palace, where Court dress was the norm, have for the past few decades boldly listed 'morning suits or lounge suits' as the expected attire. I have that romantic notion of dressing up for events, rather than simply wearing what one would wear to the office. I am most probably sounding like a bitter man beyond my years, but generations shall always hark back to the traditions of old, and there is certainly something to be said for looking smart and presentable.
My pondering over this matter actually stems from the fact that I was watching Alfred Hitchcock's Rope this weekend, a film I would definitely recommend to you all. I am particularly fond of the fact that the entire film is situated within a single set, using only 10 takes (!!). The costume design is one that I absolutely adore - the men are for the most parts wearing full thee-piece suits completely furnished with pocket squares. The pocket square, a handkerchief placed in the breast pocket of one's coat (more commonly called the jacket or blazer), is a formal accessory that seems to have fallen to the wayside with the modern evolution of men's formal attire. Indeed even by Hitchcock's 1956 film, The Man Who Knew Too Much, one notes that the only characters to sport them are merely on the periphery of the show.
The pocket square is a trend which actually originates from the end of the First World War, and although perhaps at first a casual element in itself, it was quickly adapted to serve a far more aesthetic and decorative purpose. In the run of things, it is perhaps a short-lived accessory, and yet for me there is an inherent charm to the pocket square. It is an elegant touch, and elegance is something unfortunately far too lacking in men's style these days.
Portrait of Alexis ffrench(Cover detail)
The Englishman's Suit
Hardy Amies
I believe that the mistake most men make when wearing a suit in general is that they do not take the time to get comfortable in it, and as such, comfortable and confident with themselves. It becomes obvious to those around us when we are not comfortable in our clothing, or indeed with our own bodies. Insecurities of this nature are a personal thing, and yet when it comes to the suit it is easily overcome.
I personally spent my entire schooling career within the constraints of uniform, and as such am perfectly at ease in a suit (indeed I often feel more so than when in casual attire), however there is one trick which always worked for a new suit. If you intend to wear the suit the next day or in the evening, simply wear it around the house beforehand. Spend a day in the suit just going about your general activities at home and get used to the feel and cut of your particular suit. Whilst it may sound odd, if you know before the event how the suit feels, once at the event you are able to carry it off with a natural elegance and charm. Indeed you will look positively at home in your dashing attire, in contrast to those who may look ill at ease and stiff.
'There are rules. The most important one is that it must look as if you use it; and you must'
I believe that this reasoning can easily be applied to the pocket square, in that one must be comfortable with the pocket square in order to wear it well. Hardy Amies, the couturier and Court dressmaker wrote in his book, The Englishman's Suit, that it should look as if you use it, and that you probably actually should. A suit is as much about looking good as it is functional. If you are stiff in a suit, it means that you are not wearing it correctly, or to put it into context of Amies's view on the pocket square, you are not using it properly. As such, your way of wearing the pocket square ought also to have a certain nonchalance to it. If it is merely a fashionable detail that you obsess over making look perfect, it becomes unnatural and your lack of confidence and comfort with the detail becomes problematic.
The pocket square ought to look as if it is used, having a very casual fold and display that fits seamlessly into your finished look. Indeed fussing over a single detail of your outfit too much makes the outfit feel forced in general, and I personally believe that those forced aspects not only detract from your look, but are also apparent to others who see you. Style is about confidence and being comfortable with yourself, and this is no where more needed than with formal attire.
'The second rule is that the handkerchief must not match the tie but merely tone with it in colour'
Whilst this is not a set rule, it is a good place to start. I personally find the exact matching of a tie and pocket square feels far too forced. A simple play with colour adds a dynamic flair to any outfit, and even more so with the suit. The suit is by its very nature traditional and demure, so to play with colour, even if it be subtle, has a wonderful impact. Matching tone is the easiest option, but a whole plethora of patterns and colours exist. Just as one can express personality through choice of tie, the pocket square provides innumerable chances to play around.
'Of course it's extravagant to blow one's nose in a silk handkerchief, but we are talking about style not economics'
Several basic attempts to display the options available. Some are obviously more domineering than others in style, however it is up to the wearer to find what works best for them and their outfit. Please do excuse the poor quality white cotton and sewn hem. I am slowly but surely working on a collection of proper silk handkerchiefs with rolled hems.
I am but a mere amateur in the art of using a pocket square, however feel free to check out Barima's blog to see how a true connoisseur does it.
Just remember that, as with all dressing, you should try to have fun with it!
Currently playing: I Can't Explain - The Who
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