The Volume of Summer

As the weather slowly becomes hotter and the skies proudly boast their forget-me-not blue, my thoughts with regards to outfits often seem to hinge upon the idea of volume. The billowy cool of a wider cut piece is considered alongside the clean cut of a slimmer option. I suppose one tends to think of wider cut pieces as being more suited to effortless casual wear upon the shores of the sea, however for me, there is a definite appeal for those lazy hot weekends in the city. Gathering with the family for a luncheon in the garden, with a more spacious cut for comfort, from both the heat but also the inevitable belly full of good food, has always been a wonderfully summery image for me.

However far from keeping it a simply casual look, I have often looked towards the wider cut of suits in the past. The early twentieth century saw men donning pale colours and roomier suits for the summer months. There is something about the cut however, that always lent itself to a more relaxed summer look, especially once the wearer dispensed of their jacket and rolled up their sleeves.

As I thought of smart summer clothing and cooling volume, my thoughts turned towards the Spring '06 collection from Kris Van Assche. Taking inspiration from the tango dancer, and in places the torero, Van Assche managed to present a collection with that beautifully relaxed summer feel, full of volume and a certain romantic charm, that I have always looked towards. Whilst keeping the top half of each look reasonably fitted, indeed even in spite of the layering, the trousers really allowed for a sense of easy and yet styled comfort.

I was certainly drawn towards the wonderfully voluminous trousers, which in some cases were styled into scrunched up shorts. There was something about the combination of the flowing trousers when worn with espadrilles, or indeed simply bare feet, that created a clean and simple summer look. The line created by the wide cut trousers, scrunched into shorts falling below the knee, going into the bare shins conjured a slight sense of fragility. And yet when balanced by the likes of the vests, as opposed to a long sleeved piece, actually helped to allow for a certain strength and masculinity.

The rather simple colour palette of greys, greens, off whites and blues were at times met by a rather nice pop of bright red in the form of hats, sashes (to which I was particularly drawn) or indeed simply flowers carried by the models. I especially enjoyed the red patterned t-shirt, with which the model carried a simple black blazer, lined with red silk. Indeed there were subtle hints of patterning throughout the collection, which were gentle enough on not to overpower, but rather add a visual depth for those who chose to take a second look. From the metallic studded waistcoat to the striped and texturised fabrics of the flowing tops at the end of the collection, Van Assche created a subtle yet well considered finish to his looks.

Nowhere was the attention to detail clearer than in the more formal looks, styled in some parts with the inclusion of the plain parasols. The rather traditional suited looks were removed of their jackets, and the lighter colours truly did add an interestingly relaxed dynamic. Although rather simple, the finish of each look was thoughtful and well considered. From the matching of the hats to the striped ties, to the slight hip flair of the pleated trousers creating a distinct silhouette for the looks. Indeed whilst I was attracted to the trousers of the more casual looks, I was most impressed by the relaxed and comfortable finish of the more smart outfits. I certainly feel the need to play with volume this season...

Currently playing: Pump It Up - Elvis Costello

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