Summer Tailoring


For those working in the city, a summer holiday may often sound like somewhat of a childhood memory. During the rush hour traffic, the tube stations are unceremoniously crammed with suited men and women, with the hot and oddly sticky air of the underground pushing up unapologetically against them. They wish for only the slightest of fresh breezes to save them from the humid surroundings of shallow recycled breaths. What one notices with regards to formal fashion during the summer months is an odd smorgasbord of open collars, lightweight fabrics and nicely knotted silk ties, once so smart, now mercilessly choking the overheated and sweating bankers.

Whilst many may opt for minimal casual wear in the elusive emergence of sunshine in London, I actually begin to think of summer tailoring. However I do not really think of it in the traditional sense of seersucker or linen suits, but rather a way of keeping a smart and clear design that is suitable for spring and summer. One finds that a smart look, which carefully adopts casual elements works best, however finding the balance between the two is rarely a simple challenge.

I first thought of the spring collections by Sir Paul Smith, however I soon remembered the beautiful Spring '05 collection by Jil Sander. As one of the last collections actually designed by Sander herself, I have always found it to be part of an appropriately minimalist and well considered swansong. The clean cut and slim tailoring, combined with a simple colour palette and subtle flashes of colour made for a relaxed and yet wonderfully smart collection. The attention to detail in the finish of each look showed, and indeed made the collection all the more appealing.

Alongside the smart darker suits, elegantly paired with white shirts and pale ties, I enjoyed the summery, lighter coloured suits. I was drawn towards to the simple yet powerful statement of the bright patent belts paired with the summer suits. Indeed, serving as the main focal point from the centre of the look, it allowed one to better appreciate and follow the flow of each look. There was a certain casual element provided by these belts, which allowed the suits all the more of that summer feel. In the case of the white suit, worn over a simple white t-shirt, this casual feel was clear and gave a wonderfully laid back sense of elegance.

The well fitted and clean cut design of the pieces were definitely one of my greatest attractions to the collection, in that they managed to feel fresh and modern, whilst also not being too restrictive for summer wear. It was interesting to see the casual look of a dark blue jacket and raw denim jeans, brought together by the red patent belt. The slim cut of the jeans and higher rise gave them a smarter appearance. Indeed, this feel was emphasised by the decision of the black leather shoes. However when paired with a t-shirt, and worn with the slightest of cuffs, the jeans managed to allow the look that balanced approach of casual elegance.

Whilst the collection was simple in its design, the stunning cuts and attentions to detail proved that it was well considered and wonderfully executed. The balance between the smarter and more casual elements allowed the looks to fit seamlessly into the concept of smart summer clothing. As the summer heat picks up, one often seeks to carry on looking smart, whilst taking the practical considerations of the more casual wear that summer often dictates.

Currently playing: Knock You Down ft. Kanye West & Neyo - Keri Hilson

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