Modern Gothic Romanticism

Gothic fiction, with its fascinating blend of romance and horror, was to reach its peak during the Victorian era. During the first half of the 19th century, works were widespread in the form of cheap Penny books for the working classes. Towards the late 19th century, works such as the Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde and Dracula, would come to define the dark yet beautiful genre.

Indeed the imagery evoked by the Victorian realisation of Gothic Romanticism shall always appeal to me, in the very juxtaposition of its ideals, and effortlessly beautiful vision. Of course contemporary Pop culture frequently sees a ressurgence in the popularity of the Victorian vision, from Interview With The Vampire to the most recent novels of the Twilight series. Although admittedly realised with varying degrees of quality, these are nevertheless interesting enough.

The European imaginings of Gothic Romanticism have always differed in nature to the American vision in a number of ways. And as such, when I think of German-born, Robert Geller, who is now considered as an American designer, I always feel a sense of European charm to his work. Indeed with his latest Fall '09 collection, his modern take on the Late Victorian Gothic had a wonderful appeal for me. The clothing had a romance and elegance that I always imagine of the period, yet his vision was clearly tempered with a contemporary eye, making it far more relevant to the wearers of today.

What struck me first was the beautifully considered colour palette, especially when presented on the canvas of the dark wooden runway, accessorised with hanging, dried autumnal foliage. The blacks were coupled with equally dark shades of plum and midnight blue, with the occasional pop of bright gold or indeed in the case of the dip-dyed shirt, pinks. These subtle colourings allowed for a wonderful sense of visual depth and interest, without being overly brash or loud. Indeed, it was, not what I would like to call restraint, but rather the fine measure that Geller used in both colouring and styling that I appreciated greatly.

The interesting combination of fabrics were also something that added a beautiful subtle contrast to the collection. The use of denim for the grey jacket, or the employment of leather jeans, gave the looks a decidedly contemporary feel. And it was this choice that helped the collection to look more accessible and wearable, than say, an equally beautiful, yet far more conceptual Alexander McQueen show. The use of leathers, denims, mohair, and other heavier weight fabrics gave the collection a suitably autumnal feel, that was underpinned by the darker colour choices.

The overall style of the looks was however my main attraction to the collection. From the use of the wing collars, to the elaborate bows, to the cutaway jackets and waistcoats, there was a clear sense of the period inspiration. And yet, once again, the fine measure employed by Geller, gave the looks a far more subtle finish, with the more fitted cuts, and only slightly looser shirts, giving a clear wearability.

I was therefore excited to see the LookBook for the Fall '09 collection, where this wearability factor was emphasised. Removed from its setting on the catwalk, the pieces felt far more modern and the subtle quality of the pieces truly did show through. In that matter, I feel the decision to shoot against a plain studio backdrop was a good one. I was also drawn to the interesting poses of the model, allowing the fit and shape of the garments to be displayed in a creative, and yet suitable fashion. I am rather tempted to now go and experiment with a few scarf tying techniques...


Currently playing: Para Tu Amor - Juanes

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