The Gucci Man
I was watching a documentary this morning on the French Riviera during the 1960s - an exciting place to be during an exciting time. The archive footage showed men in wonderfully fitted suits, driving leisurely in the bright sunshine alongside willowy women in bright print dresses. The summer months saw the rich and famous descend into the beautiful surroundings, simultaneously with an influx of great fashion. Mesmerised by the stunning imagery and clothing, I was reminded of Frida Giannini's exuberant and energetic Spring '07 offering for Gucci.
Looking at Gucci menswear before the Spring '07 collection, it felt as if Giannini was still finding her vision for the Gucci man. Compared to the looks being executed in the womenswear collections, the menswear was lacking a certain finish and charm. There was always a slight hesistation, which made it feel as if there was more beneath the surface that had not been expressed. Whilst there was a clear identity for the Gucci woman, it did not really feel as if the Gucci man belonged by her side.
However, it would be in the Spring '07 collection, that the Gucci man would find his true standing. Exquisite tailoring, combined with colourful prints and a wonderfully laid back elegance made sure that the Gucci man now had something to be proud of. Giannini had already looked back to the fantastic Gucci printed scarves of the '60s and '70s in her earlier womenswear collections, and here it was clear that her fascination had found its menswear realisation. The colourful and well cut looks were beautifully reminiscent of those '60s Riviera days.
Whilst the collection had a clear energy, it was not overpowering in its display. The purple trousers or turquoise t-shirt were given a carefully considered cut allowing them a certain adopted elegance. The pairing of these colours gave an excellent sense of belonging, in that when laid against a brown leather jacket, or two tone shoes, they were not brash in their statement.
Comparatively the suits actually felt subtly restrained. The clashing of fine prints and absence of the more brighter colours employed in the casual looks, meant that there was a sense of balance in the collection. One could be refined and elegant at one moment, yet at another, let loose with a suede jacket or purple cardigan. The was a visual coherence between the smart and casual, yet a subtle distinction in their relationship.
Indeed, Giannini managed to achieve a wonderful sense of balance in her collection as a whole. There was a joyful energy, which was clearly exuberant in its display, alongisde well measured formal looks with clashing prints. The collection was fun and full of energy, yet at the same time had that relaxed charm. It was not over considered in its statement, which can be a difficult line to maintain with so many colours and wild prints. It was most definitely the birth of the new Gucci man.
Currently playing: Cello Suite No. 1 (Bach) - Yo-Yo Ma
xxxx