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One of the things I find so interesting about the global fashion market is the inevitable reconceptualisation of foreign fashion staples. A designer can take a look that ostensibly defines an entire location, a certain group of people, or an age, and carefully translate it via the personal visual language of their own aesthetic. It is the redefinition of looks by a designer, and the discovery of its contemporary self, that I find deeply fascinating.
Indeed London based designer, Dexter Wong did exactly that for his latest Fall '09 collection for People's Market. The collection was a visually complex array of more classically American styles redefined for a more European look. Indeed whilst I have a love for the traditional designs and the staple classics of American fashion history, obviously seen from an British viewpoint, I have always felt that to wear certain looks without adaptation would constitute almost as costume.
There is an allure to the more traditional outfits, that I would assume go by vastly unnoticed in their setting, that I find would be exciting as a display on London streets. The important distinction between costume and a ready to wear look however, is the adaption of its style to make it relevant. Taking a raw product and moulding it to one's own style and aesthetic inherently allows it to look better in its outcome. As such I feel a clear appeal from the People's Market collection, in that the outfits have been reworked to a more contemporary look.
The obvious question here would be one of how the collection manages to feel more modern, and indeed more European, if you will. The answer is, as seems to be the case for most fashions, a case of the fit. Creating a far more slimline and fitted silhouette, allowed the looks a certain contemporary appeal. I found it interesting to see that the top layering, with pieces such as the shearling jacket and fur-lined cardigan, managed to remain looking fitted and far from bulky in their silhouette. Indeed, the finer, more high end fabric choices, in actuality allowed for a far more fitted construction.
I was also interested by the styling of pieces such as the buffalo plaid jacket, with the fine stripe cotton shirt and thin red bow. Indeed the bow ties found in this collection were far from the formal norm, being casual and yet classic in their interpretation. Not only does the collection feature these smaller pieces of visual flair, there is also a richness and visual depth to each of the looks. One notes the Fair Isle patterning adorning some of the looks, or the depth and almost tactile quality to the pairing of lighter weight fabrics alongside the shearling and furs.
The looks are also decidedly modern in their employment of more youthful garment designs. The full zip hoodie provided a more streetwear feel, the slimmer baseball jacket gave a clear youthful nature, whilst the slimmer cut jeans and trousers spoke for themselves. I must admit that I am myself rather drawn towards the outerwear pieces, in particular the baseball jacket. I suppose it is a British allure of rarely seeing that type of garment in person.
The collection as a whole had a definite appeal, in its modern and more youthful interpretation of classic design pieces. I found that the mix of international designs within the collection, from the American baseball jacket to the Scottish Fair Isle print, fit well together and that Wong managed to give a clear and concise message throughout. The fitted constructions and the visual richness of the patterns and textures made for an interesting collection.
Currently playing: Love And Happiness - Al Green
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