Autumn Wishlist: Hickey
Coming in as the more casual side of the New York based tailoring establishment, Hickey Freeman, Hickey quite literally left me yearning for autumn with their latest Fall '09 collection. With a background in fine tailoring, the understandable challenge for Hickey would no doubt be to try and make the clothing relevant to a younger market, without stepping away from their heritage. Their traditional expertise however is thankfully not lost in their latest collection, and dare I say that I find it far more exciting than their tailoring line?
The first thing I took in from the collection were the casual woolen suits. The suits employed in the Hickey collection featured beautifully tailored grey, plaid and navy wools, alongside a wonderfully plush dark mustard. The cuts are decidedly classic, well constructed and closely cut, yet not restrictive in their fit, allowing for a more relaxed feel. Keeping to these simple colours, allowed for the cut and quality of the suits to truly shine. I enjoyed the styling of the suits with the woven navy ties and white pocket squares, which were in keeping with the more casual feel, yet gave a certain refined touch nevertheless.
I found the cut of trousers, with the rather larger turn up quite interesting. It is odd to think that in hearing such a design, I would not think of it all that favourably. Yet in seeing the results, I must admit that I find them appealing. I was also drawn to the length, in that they fall just right for the ankle boots and low profile lace ups that they were paired with. Indeed the pairing in the suit looks with the brown lace up ankle boots allowed for a wonderfully comfortable autumnal look. Carrying on along the footwear front, I was rather taken by the brown crepe soled boots that were prominent in the collection. The supple leather and deep brown colouring made me think that they would age beautifully given a season or two of wear, without looking worse for wear.
I was also drawn to the classic knitwear, especially the blue and white woolen piece. The use of the woolen knits over the plaid shirts, allowed for a relaxed and warm look, that seemed perfect for an autumnal afternoon walk. Indeed the use of the wools and thick cottons throughout the collection gave a wonderful sense of warmth and comfort to the looks, which are definitely an appealing factor in light of the colder months. The thick cotton trousers with the frontal flap pockets were also an interesting decision. The pockets were actually lined up against the centre seam, and placement gave a fascinating shape to the trousers.
I enjoyed the subtle visual depth to the looks. The patterned shirts, just peeking over the top of the thick knits, or the mirroring of the coat lining with the plaid, added a rich visual to each look. Indeed the subtle linings given to the pieces were an appealing touch. One notes the silk polka dot lining on the woolen shawl collar jumper, or the plaid lining to the row of buttons on the cardigan.
It is the small details in clothing design, which I feel give the collection such strength. I shall always appreciate designers who really do pay attention to the small details such as those found in this collection. For although others may not always notice, it is the enjoyment that the wearer obtains themselves that matters most.
The collection as a whole had a clear quality of construction and fabrics, which combined with the classic fits and beautiful detailing gave it a wonderful appeal. Indeed given the opportunity, I would love to try these outfits for autumn and winter. Although summer is tentatively stepping her foot through the doorway, I am already excited for potential autumnal outfits.
On a side note, if the model looks familiar, you may have seen him on The Satorialist. In the space of two years, he went from this...
...to this!
(I definitely love this look more than his previous, and am more than somewhat jealous of his beard)Currently playing: La Camisa Negra - Juanes
xxxx