Crumpled Beauty

Having worked under legendary designer Yohji Yamamoto for a number of years, both Masakatsu Takayanagi and Yuki Taniyama decided in 2002 to make the move into creating a fashion label of their own. The images above are a selection from the fantastic Spring '09 collection from kiryuyrik.

The first aspect one notes of the collection is Takayanagi's decision to use blacks and greys throughout. Admittedly not the colour palette one assumes for a spring collection, however given the background with Yamamoto it is an understandable choice. The fabric choices and cuts are what help these looks feel lighter in their design. By employing the use of very fine silks, jerseys and cottons, the visual weight of the looks are greatly cut down, and indeed they are also given a physically lighter and less restrictive quality.

The use of pre-wrinkled fabrics in the coats and jackets add an element of visual interest, especially when considering the beautiful sheen of many of the pieces under changing light. The clothing also rewards the viewer for a closer inspection via the fine embroidery and subtle patterning. Indeed one notes the intriguing detailing on the back of the waistcoats, ranging from the butterfly logo of kiryuyrik to a design of beautifully cascading flowers and petals. Even the simple casual tops sport these intricate details of cut away design and subtle colour balance.

The fit of the collection also stands out in being well executed, yet not overly designed making it more wearable. The fitted yet slouchy tops are often paired with jodhpur style trousers throughout the collection, giving a very easy and interesting silhouette to the looks. Indeed I am personally rather drawn to the black jodhpur trousers, with their slight thigh flair. The glossy striped suit and the crumpled tan trench also stand out as exceptional pieces, that would make a wondreful addition to any wardrobe.

I would be inclined to wear a piece with an entire monochrome look, yet would also be interested in seeing the glossy dark pieces, paired with whites or even very subtle pops of colour, for example with a patent red skinny belt or even just a colourful monochrome piece of jewelry.

Currently playing: Gibberish - Ryan Leslie

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