The Simurgh

(I adore this jumper)

"Come you lost Atoms to your Centre draw,
And be the Eternal Mirror that you saw:
Rays that have wander'd into Darkness wide
Return and back into your Sun subside"

Writing in the latter half of the twelveth century, Persian poet Farid Ud-Din, also known simply as Attar ("pharmacist"), narrated in his poetry the story of thirty birds crossing the seven valleys in order to find the legendary Simurgh. The Simurgh, found mainly in Persian folklore, although also cropping up in artwork from India, Armenia and Byzantium, was said to be the majestic winged beast that served as a messenger between the heavens and earth. She was said to roost at the Tree of Life, set in the middle of the great sea of the world, the seeds and fruit of which could cure any illness or woe that befell mankind. His story, although on the one hand telling of the journey of these birds to find the legendary creature, was written as an analogy telling of the paths one would have to follow, were they to reach Enlightenment.

Borrowing the name of this famous poem, Andrew Holden began his brand, Conference of Birds last year with his Autumn Winter 08 collection. Although by now the collection is two seasons old, I thought I would share these photographs due to the sheer quality of the clothing. The main attraction for me were the finely cut and traditional outerwear pieces.

The rather strong shoulders and low cut arm sleeves, which lead to quite a dominant upper torso shape remind me in terms of tailoring of a British cut akin to something from the likes of Henry Poole & Co. Yet the cutting in of the waist and prominent shoulders also smack of a very French style, and as such I find that combination of influences very appealing in the overall silhouette, especially in terms of a garment that is ready-to-wear. The winter fabrics that are used for the clothing, indeed including the shirts are also a very attractive prospect.

It seems in winter one always finds oneself looking towards more casual fabrics in terms of shirts, simple because of their warm and cosy qualities, as opposed to something such as a fine combed cotton. I find the military style shirt rather appealing, and it is nice to see that the thicker fabric shirts were styled with a softer collar - minus the collar stays. Personally speaking, I always feel that collar stays should only really be worn with fine shirts and with a suit, for more casual looks, even if I am wearing a tie, I tend to find that softer collar look more appropriate.

What are your thoughts of the collection?

Currently playing: Arabesque #1 - Debussy (performed by Aldo Ciccolini)

xxxx