Untitled at ASOS
Launched this Thursday was the 'untitled' project at British online retailers ASOS. The idea of the project was based on exclusivity, inviting experts in vinyl, trainers, sunglasses and new designers, to create, collect and design a series of rare, hard to find or limited edition products for sale.
Rare vinyls were provided by Amoeba, the world's largest independent record store. Owner Jim Henderson explained that "this particular project is introducing its users to new concepts and ideas, bringing an awareness of others who strive for expertise in their fields.” Amoeba’s vinyl-buying expert, Rick Frystak, selected a wide range of rare vinyls spanning a number of generations and musical genres. Fraser Laing of Archiv spearheaded the sunglasses section of the project. He looked for limited edition contemporary designs to be sold alongside rare vintage frames. Online store Crooked Tongues worked to offer the high end of sports footwear. No doubt the highlight of the collection being the Adidas 35th Anniversary Superstar trainers, on sale for the reasonable price of £4000 (you might not want to wear those too much!).
The clothing side of the project was catered for by London based fashion writer, Hywel Davies. He decided to look for new international menswear designers and asked them to design limited edition garments especially for the project.
Here is what the designers had to say:
Deryck Walker
1) How would you define your aesthetic?
I always start with a great classic style. I think you can’t go wrong if you work with a great foundation of the basics.
2) Who, or what inspires you?
Francis Bacon and James Dean. People who make a contribution to this world.
3) How do you remain innovative in fashion design?
Keeping yourself out there with your eyes and ears open, keeping yourself current.
Frank Leder
1) Describe your design philosophy.
To make high quality garments which recall a Germany of the past, and reflect a certain intellectual humour.
2) How would you define your aesthetic?
A grounded, down to earth way of thinking, with an unconventional way of perceiving.
3) How would you define successful menswear?
It should be rooted in a strong design language. It should show its own character and where it is coming from. The identification to the garment is important, as well as a certain aspect of discovery and intellectual stimulation.
Patrik Soderstam
1) Who do you design for?
I design with myself in mind. My design ideas circle around my life, what I need and how I want to express myself. I am interested in pushing boundaries and to wear things out of the norm. I am not into theatrical things or expression. I am into real everyday life stuff, my style.
2) What is the most enjoyable part of design?
I enjoy working in the studio by myself, experimenting with new shapes. I like the process of making new patterns to make up test garment after test garment. I also enjoy making the presentations, the photographs, the graphics, the happening or the film. I don’t like doing the traditional catwalk with the models - I hate that. I will probably need to do catwalks again at some point - but it’s all so boring. I am into progressive stuff.
3) How would you describe your customer?
Free open minded thinkers. They are arty rebels that know what they are about.
Carola Euler
1) Describe your design philosophy?
Making real clothes that men actually do want to wear.
2) How woud you define your aesthetic?
Obvious but discreet. Fresh but formal.
3) What is the most challenging aspect of design?
Editing. I’m not a fan of embellishment so I have no problems with chucking things out. I am not happy until everything that can be taken away is gone. But deciding on what needs to go can be difficult. If you get a small thing wrong it can imbalance the whole collection.
Jean-Pierre Braganza
1) Describe your design philosophy.
I fuse illusory pattern making with sartorial patternmaking while manipulating historical ideas and embracing futurism. I also have one foot in the dark side.
2) What is the most enjoyable part of design?
I love draping, and designing on the body. Pattern cutting on the table is also rewarding, but there’s nothing like playing with shapes on the body.
3) How would you describe your customer?
Adventurous, forward thinking, empowered women of dandyish men.
Currently playing: Where Can She Be Found - Lee Carr / Teardrops - Massive Attack
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