Loving Touch of the Artisan

As the New York Spring 2009 shows came to end, I could not help but feel somewhat cheated. The men's shows were far from inspiring, with few looks really grabbing my attention. In stark comparison I found my attention ensared by the delightful designs of the women's collections, with the likes of Betsey Johnson, Doo.Ri and Jil Saunders.

However one collection did stand out for me, that of Gilded Age. Stefan Miljanic looked towards the artists of the New York scene towards the end of the 20th Century. With the likes of Edward Hopper and Jackson Pollock serving as inspiration, the collection was filled with lovingly crafted, vintage-inspired pieces. He paid particular attention to the materials and fabrics, which were undoubtedly the highlight of the designs. Each piece was carefully dyed and formed to give the deepest colours and finishes. Examples of these can be clearly seen in the wonderfully rich raw denim pieces and the hand faded denim jeans. Indeed Tim Blanks reports that the 'T-shirts were organically dyed in Japan, the intensity of the orange shade achieved by 12 days weathering on a rooftop, the indigo dipped 11 times to get its colo[u]r right'. Each garment showed the highest quality of care, which is something that is often amiss in modern collections.

It often seems that with the consumerism of our modern society and the 'throw away' lifestyle in which we are ensnared, that we have no space for lovingly made and long lasting garments. However for me the Gilded Age collection was exactly that, carefully crafted pieces with high attention to detail. Those who take relish in such garments will also have noticed the interior finishings of the individual pieces, which have all been equally carefully decorated and designed. Therefore it seems to appeal to those who really are appreciative of their clothing. Interiors are only seen by the wearer, and I personally feel that any designer that pays this area attention really does understand the love of a garment and attachment to it a buyer can and should feel.

Admittedly the designs in themselves were not exactly revolutionary or overlty 'trend' worthy, however for sheer overall quality and design, they were second to none. The attention to colour would have no doubt been of admiration by the likes of Hopper, who himself was a very accomplished colourist, providing inspiration for artists such as Mark Rothko. Robert Henri used to tell his students, among which Hopper was one, to "make a stir in the world" with their art. Hopefully the high attention to detail and crafting of this collection serves to show the fashion world something they have long been missing.

Currently playing: Streets On Fire ft. Matthew Santos - Lupe Fiasco

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