"Crumpled Classics"
Christopher Bailey called his Spring 2009 collection, for Burberry Prorsum, "Crumpled Classics". There was an intentional focus on outerwear, hence the exposed clavicles and the light, washed out fabrics layered underneath the caots and blazers. Drawing inspiration from English film director, artist and writer (to name a few of his accomplishments) Derek Jarman, Bailey sought to create a vintage collection, with well worn yet loved garments. The melancholy nature of the fabrics, provided by cosy and warm textures, muted tones and drapping fits, looked towards Jarman's life. In particular, it looked towards his famous home, where he moved to after being diagnosed with HIV in his later years.
Jarman's famous shingle cottage was built along the harsh English coastline near to Dungeness, in the shadow of its large nuclear power station. The somewhat drab tones of pewter, stone, moss and peat conjured memories of rain along the English coastline, where the elements frequently ravage the landscape. This coupled with the lightweight fabrics under the heavy outerwear reminded the viewer of the fragility of nature when compared to the harsh elements and uncertain shadow of a nuclear station. The construction of both the cottage and the garden, used local materials, which were given a breath of new life, a breath also apparent in the clothing of Bailey's collection.
The worn in feel of the collection provided a comfortable and loved look, yet also a ruggedness, fitting in perfectly with the inspiration drawn from Jarman and his home. Other Spring collections seemed to draw inspirations from the pyjama suit, baggy pinstriped tailoring, a fresh contrast was therefore visible in this collection. Although Bailey arguably used an inspiration that would have served for a Fall Collection, he managed to bring a lightness to his work, making the clothing well suited to the Spring. Despite the sadness of the collection, drawing wondeful inspiration from Jarman's later years, Bailey managed to bring a new hope and light.
Currently playing: I'm Sorry - Neyo / Good Vibrations - Gym Class Heroes
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